My Journey to Heaven: Leh–Ladakh Twice in a Lifetime
- patelnikita1491
- Aug 13
- 14 min read
Updated: Aug 18
Have you ever had the rare joy of visiting heaven on your very first trip? I did.
Perched high in the northernmost reaches of India, surrounded by snow-clad mountains and skies so clear they seem hand-painted, Leh–Ladakh is as close to heaven as I’ve ever been. I had the privilege to visit this magical land not once, but twice — first in 2018, and then again in 2025. And let me tell you, the feeling didn’t fade with time; if anything, it grew deeper.
I still remember that moment gazing out of the airplane window, watching the Himalayas unfold beneath me. The endless ridges, some crowned with snow, others glowing golden under the morning sun, made my heart skip a beat. My inner child woke up instantly, and my sense of devotion felt alive in a way that words can hardly capture. Flying from Delhi to Leh is more than a journey. It’s a spiritual awakening.
About Ladakh
Ladakh, often called The Land of High Passes, is a cold desert region tucked between the Himalayas and the Karakoram ranges. Its dramatic landscapes, Buddhist monasteries, and unique culture are the heart of its charm. Once an independent kingdom, Ladakh’s history is shaped by Tibetan, Central Asian, and Indian influences, with rulers like Sengge Namgyal leaving their mark through grand palaces and forts. Today, it’s divided into Leh and Kargil districts, sharing borders with Tibet, Pakistan, and China. A journey here is not just about scenic views. It is about stepping into a living museum of culture, faith, and resilience.
Getting There
There are only two ways to reach Leh:
By Air – Direct flights from Delhi (and some from Srinagar) make the trip quick and breathtaking.
By Road – The adventurous route from Manali or Srinagar offers jaw-dropping views, high passes, and plenty of “stop-and-stare” moments. Public buses and sharing taxis also run seasonally from Manali to Leh, turning travel into a thrilling ride.
What to See and Do
Ladakh is an explorer’s dream. You can ride through the world’s highest motorable passes like Khardung La, spend hours at turquoise lakes like Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, or wander through centuries-old monasteries filled with prayer flags fluttering in the wind. The local bazaars brim with Tibetan handicrafts, and if you’re up for it, bike trips to remote border areas will test both your spirit and stamina.
Staying Connected
A quick tip — only postpaid mobile connections work in Ladakh. BSNL offers the widest coverage, and in some places, it’s the only lifeline.
My Itinerary (2018 + 2025)
Both my trips were slow and immersive, allowing me to balance exploration with my professional duties. Here’s how I explored:
Day 1 - Delhi to Leh (acclimatization)
Day 2 - Leh local sightseeing & Food exploration
Day 3 - Leh to Nubra valley via Khardung La Pass
Day 4 - Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso to Leh
Day 5 - Leh - Market and food exploration
Day 6 - Leh to Tso Moriri
Day 7 - Tso Moriri to Leh
Day 8 - Leh to Delhi
Alternate Road Trip Itinerary (Manali–Leh)
If you’re ready for a grand adventure covering both sides of Ladakh, here’s a 14-day route worth considering:
Here’s the day-wise list without descriptions:
Day 1: Delhi to Manali
Day 2: Manali to Keylong (Stay option at Keylong - Zomsa culture hub - +91 7018435443 )
Day 3: Keylong to Padum (Stay option at Padum - Himalayan Guest house - +91 6006952127 )
Day 4: Padum to Zanskar & Phugtal Monastery
Day 5: Zanskar to Kargil
Day 6: Kargil to Leh (Stay option at Leh- Raybo Hostel - +91 8899899696 )
Day 7: Explore Leh
Day 8: Leh to Turtuk via Khardung La Pass
Day 9: Turtuk to Nubra Valley
Day 10: Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso
Day 11: Pangong Tso to Hanle
Day 12: Hanle to Uming La Pass & Hanle Stay (Rest Day)
Day 13: Hanle to Tso Moriri via Puga (Stay option at Tso Moriri - Dolphin guest house - +91 9469555269)
Day 14: Tso Moriri to Leh
Day 15: Relax in Leh & Market & Food Exploration
Day 16: Leh to Delhi (Flight) or Drive Back to Manali/Srinagar
Get Your Inner Line Permits – Whether you’re an Indian or an international traveller, Inner Line Permits are essential for visiting Ladakh’s protected gems like Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso, and Tso Moriri. These days, you also have the option to apply for the permits online, making it much easier to plan ahead.
My Days in Leh & Ladakh and experience
Day 1 - Delhi to Leh (Acclimatation)
It was my very first trip to the Himalayas, and I was over the moon — quite literally — when I saw them from the airplane window. Flying to Leh is, without a doubt, the best way to arrive. From above, the mountains stretch endlessly, and if you’re lucky, you’ll also catch a glimpse of the shimmering glaciers of Himachal Pradesh. A little tip from me: book a right-side window seat on your flight to Leh — that’s where the magic unfolds.
When I first landed in 2018, Leh’s airport felt like a tiny, adorable outpost tucked between the mountains — and even in 2025, it’s still just as charming. One thing to remember: photography at the airport is strictly prohibited due to the surrounding army areas, so keep your camera tucked away until you’re outside.
The moment you arrive, give yourself at least one or two days to acclimatize. The sudden change in altitude and oxygen levels can be tricky, and it’s best to let your body adjust. My first day was all about rest and gentle exploration — a slow walk to the Leh Market, which is alive with colours, sounds, and the smell of fresh momos steaming at roadside stalls.
Accommodation in Leh caters to every kind of traveller — from cosy budget stays and backpacker hostels to luxurious hotels with mountain views. I chose a small hotel within walking distance of the market, which meant I could wander in anytime I wanted. In the heart of Leh Market, you’ll find stalls and shops selling exquisite Ladakhi handicrafts, from handwoven pashminas to carved wooden treasures. Everything here feels authentic to the land, and if something catches your eye, don’t hesitate — you’ll be carrying a piece of Ladakh home with you.
Day 2 - Leh and exploring nearby Places
Once my body had adjusted to the altitude, it was finally time to explore the treasures around Leh. The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we hopped into a shared taxi — though, if you’re feeling adventurous, renting a scooty or bike is a fantastic way to enjoy Ladakh’s smooth roads and breathtaking landscapes. We set off around 10 a.m., the sun already spilling golden light over the rugged mountains.
Our first stop was Sangam Point, where the muddy brown Zanskar River meets the shimmering green Indus. Standing there, watching two distinct rivers merge yet retain their own colours, I felt a sense of quiet awe. Nature, in Ladakh, has a way of making you pause and simply breathe it all in.
From there, we continued to Hemis Monastery, a place that feels like a slice of history frozen in time. Dating back to before the 11th century, it’s renowned for the vibrant Hemis Festival held in June or July, when masked dancers whirl through the courtyards in a riot of colour and music. Our visit came too early for the festivities, but the monastery itself, with its golden statues, ancient stupas, and intricate thangkas, left us deeply moved.
Next was Thiksey Monastery, just a 25–30 minute drive from Leh along the Leh–Manali Highway. The journey there was as beautiful as the destination — stark landscapes under a wide, open sky that seemed to wash away every lingering thought. Perched dramatically on a hill, Thiksey’s tiered white façade is one of Ladakh’s most photographed sights, and seeing it in person was nothing short of magical.
We then headed along the Leh–Srinagar Highway to the Hall of Fame Museum. Built in honour of the Indian Army, it’s a poignant reminder of the courage and sacrifice of soldiers who protect these remote frontiers. Walking through its exhibits, reading the stories, and seeing the artefacts from the LOC left us humbled and grateful.
A short drive away, we reached Magnetic Hill, a curious little stretch of road where, when you leave your vehicle in neutral, it seems to roll uphill. It’s an optical illusion, of course, but still an unmissable Ladakh quirk that makes you smile.
Our next stop was Gurdwara Pathar Sahib, a serene Sikh shrine about 25 miles from Leh. The calm that greets you here is unlike anywhere else. We bowed our heads, accepted the warm prasad, and joined in a bit of seva. That simple act of service felt grounding after a day filled with so many impressions.
Finally, as the day began to fade, we made our way to Shanti Stupa for sunset. Perched high on a hill, this white-domed stupa offers panoramic views of Leh and the mountains beyond. As the sun dipped low, painting the sky in pinks and golds, prayer flags fluttered softly in the breeze. It was one of those moments where time seemed to stand still — the perfect, peaceful ending to a day of beauty, history, and quiet wonder.
Day 3 – Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La Pass
Ladakh is known for its legendary high mountain passes, and Khardung La is one of the most iconic. From here, you can take in breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan ranges — a sight that will stay etched in your memory. Since it lies on the way to Nubra Valley, it’s best to leave early so you can enjoy the view before the crowds arrive.
That’s exactly what we did. After a hearty breakfast at Chai Shai in Leh Market, we checked out of our hotel and began the journey towards Khardung La. The ride was nothing short of mesmerizing — winding roads, crisp mountain air, and views that made you forget about everything else. We paused midway for tea and snacks near the pass, soaking in the thin air and panoramic vistas.
When we finally reached Khardung La, all I could feel was pure awe. Standing at such an altitude, surrounded by towering peaks, was surreal. Our onward drive led us deeper into Nubra Valley, where I experienced something for the first time — staying in a tent set up amidst apple and apricot orchards.
After some rest, we headed for the famous double-humped Bactrian camel ride in the sand dunes of Hunder. It was my first time riding any animal, and though I was a little nervous at first, it turned into a surprisingly fun experience. As the day ended, we returned to our campsite, had a warm dinner, and then sat outside under the vast Ladakh sky.
My travel companions and I sang songs, shared stories, and gazed at countless stars — a perfect ending to a magical day.
Day 4 – Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso
The next morning, our journey continued towards Pangong Tso — one of the highest brackish water lakes in the world, sitting at an altitude of 14,270 ft. The lake stretches 134 km in length and about 5 km in width, with only one-third in India and the rest across the border in China.
When we arrived, the scene was almost otherworldly — the lake mirrored the surrounding stern mountains, while fluffy white clouds floated above. In summer, Pangong becomes a haven for wildlife, and you can spot bar-headed geese, Brahminy ducks, seagulls, and even the elusive black-necked crane. But the lake’s most enchanting feature is its mood — shifting from deep blue to grey-green to shades of red, all within hours.
Back in 2018, reaching Pangong was quite a challenge. The roads were bumpy, accommodation was scarce (just one or two tents, neither very inviting), and facilities were minimal. But things have changed dramatically since then — smooth roads now wind their way to the lake, and comfortable stays, including eco-tents and hotels, are available.
Once there, I couldn’t take my eyes off the water. I collected smooth pebbles from the shore, dipped my hands into the icy water, and just breathed in the silence.
We had initially planned to return to Leh the same day, but on the way back, I witnessed something I’ll never forget. We stopped at a random spot, and suddenly, from nowhere, a herd of cattle appeared, running past us before vanishing again. At the same time, the sky exploded in sunset colours — golden rays, fiery orange clouds, and a magical stillness in the air. For a moment, it felt like time had paused… almost as if something divine was present.
That night, we stayed in an eco-lodge just outside Leh. We laughed, reminisced about the trip, and shared our favourite moments before turning in. The next morning, it was time to fly back to Delhi, carrying memories that will stay with me forever.
Up next, I’ll share the story of my recent 2025 trip to Tso Moriri — a journey I started from Leh itself, perfect for travelers who want to take things slow.
Day 5 - Leh - Market and food exploration
This year, Leh wasn’t on my calendar — until it suddenly was. An impromptu plan, a spark of wanderlust, and before I knew it, I had booked an early morning flight from Ahmedabad to Leh via Delhi.
Flying into Leh after seven long years felt like greeting an old friend. As we left Delhi behind, I glued myself to the airplane window, my eyes scanning for the first glimpse of the Himalayas. Soon, they appeared — vast glaciers, rugged barren slopes, and snow-capped peaks glistening under the morning sun. The landscape below looked otherworldly, a mix of desert and ice.
I spent my first three to four days simply soaking it all in — wandering the market lanes, tasting local food, chatting with shopkeepers, and just letting the easy rhythm of Leh life seep into me. There was no rush, no itinerary — just pure, unhurried joy.
This time, I stumbled upon something I had never really paid attention to before: Sea buckthorn — or as the locals call it, Leh Berry. It’s a nutrient-rich plant loaded with antioxidants, Vitamin C, and omega fatty acids — a true superfood that helps with heart health, skin glow, and immunity. I bought mine from a local farmer who grows it on his own land and sells it at a modest price.
Another small joy was visiting the vegetable market near the Tibetan Market. Here, you can find fresh apricots — both dried and ripe — at great prices and in excellent quality. Every day, I’d buy from the same elderly lady who came from a nearby village to sell her produce. She had this warm smile and a kind heart — always slipping a few extra apricots into my bag for free. She also told me a little secret: the seeds of the apricot hide tiny almonds inside. Just crack them open and enjoy — nothing goes to waste!
I also spent time wandering through the markets at my own pace, letting curiosity guide me. One of my favourite finds was a beautiful copper wind chime from the local Tibetan market — a true Ladakhi speciality. Honestly, prices in the main market can be steep, but if you head to the old Tibetan market, you’ll find the very same treasures for much less. The variety is almost identical, but the charm of buying from smaller stalls makes it even better.
And here’s a little shopping tip — if you’re looking for woollen clothes, whether for kids or adults, head to Leh market after 8 p.m. That’s when local women set up along the footpaths, selling warm, handmade pieces at incredibly affordable prices. They’re not only talented but also incredibly kind. Some will even knit or weave a piece in the exact colour you want.
And of course, food in Leh deserves its own love letter. From cozy cafés serving hearty breakfasts to street stalls with steaming bowls of thukpa, the Leh market is a paradise for anyone who loves to eat. I’ll share my favourite food spots in a bit — because some of them are too good to miss.
Bon Appétit – Famous for its rainbow trout; I tried their pesto pizza, and it was delicious.
Tibetan Kitchen – Must-try: the hearty Gyako bowl.
Chopsticks Noodle Bar – Great spot for Asian cuisine.
Bodhisattva – Located in Leh Market, known for its pastries.
Chai Shai – Offers multi-cuisine options; don’t miss their French fries with special green chutney and a perfect chai stop.
Ladakh Himalayan Kitchen – Try the peri-peri momos and other varieties if you’re a momo fan.
Happy World – Ideal for pasta and a mix of other cuisines.
Kathi King – Go-to place for all kinds of rolls.
Day 6 – Leh to Tso Moriri
After a peaceful weekend in Leh, filled with delicious meals and serene evenings, the urge for another adventure kicked in. On a whim, my friends and I decided to take a bike trip to Tso Moriri. We rented our bikes from a nearby trusted rental shop (Rental place name - Aquafire adventure - +91 9622773271— the owner was so meticulous that he had the bikes serviced beforehand and even delivered them to our doorstep early in the morning. Moments like these remind you how wonderfully honest and diligent people can be.
Before setting off, we treated ourselves to breakfast at our favourite spot, Chai Shai, and then hit the road. Rain was in the forecast, but luck was on our side — the skies stayed clear for us. The ride itself was a dream; the roads were unexpectedly smooth, and somewhere along the way, we stumbled upon an army-run café with a small souvenir shop. We paused there for steaming cups of tea and coffee, soaking in the view before continuing.
On the way to Tso Moriri, just before reaching Mahe village, you’ll come across Mahe Bridge. From there, take a right turn toward Tso Moriri — the road is in good condition. This particular route isn’t shown on Google Maps, but once you cross the bridge, Google Maps will start tracking your location.
Tso Moriri Lake, located in Ladakh’s Changthang region, is India’s largest high-altitude lake at 4,521 meters above sea level. To truly understand Ladakh’s beauty, you have to experience it — and Tso Moriri is a perfect example. Stretching approximately 26 km in length and 5 km in width, this breathtaking freshwater lake is famed for its crystal-clear blue waters, surrounded by a picturesque and tranquil landscape.
It took us about five hours to reach. Since this was another impromptu plan (I seem to specialise in those, haha), we searched for a place to stay and ended up in a charming old Tibetan house (Stay option at Tso Moriri - Dolphin guest house - +91 9469555269). The view from our room was magical — the lake shimmering under daylight, and at night, an endless sky glittering with stars. It was so still and peaceful that I could literally hear my own heartbeat.
There’s barely any mobile network here except BSNL postpaid connection, and our stay had no Wi-Fi. But the owner, ever so sweet, offered me her personal connection when I needed to call my family. I loved every moment in that home.
Later, we walked to the lake, but a sudden shower sent us scurrying back. Honestly, I didn’t mind — watching the rain-dappled lake from our window while sipping chai and munching on samosas was its own kind of magic. Our stay included meals, which meant evenings spent chatting with the friendly owners and fellow travellers from France. That night was perhaps the quietest of my life — no internet, no notifications, just conversations and stillness.
Day 7 – Tso Moriri to Leh (with a stop at Puga)
The next morning, we decided to take it slow, soaking in Tso Moriri’s calm before starting our journey back. Before leaving, we made a small detour to Puga, a spot that’s been gaining popularity lately.
You can easily reach Puga by road. If you’re traveling by bike or taxi, it usually takes around 50–60 minutes to get there. If you have a bit more time and want to make the most of your trip, I’d recommend extending your journey and planning an overnight stay in Puga — the serene landscapes and peaceful atmosphere make it worth it.
The place is famous for its hot spring — let’s just say its shape gets plenty of laughs. Getting there was an adventure in itself; we had to walk through mud, cross grassy fields, and wade through a stream. In the summer, when the rains hold off, people even camp here under the stars.
After a short but sweet visit, we rode back towards Leh.
The journey felt almost meditative — just the road, the mountains, music in my ears, and no thoughts in my mind. I’m forever grateful to my fellow riders who took on the driving for those two days, letting me fully sink into the experience.
Day 8 – Leh to Delhi
Back in Leh, we decided to linger for a few more days, taking it easy, doing some last-minute shopping for friends and family, and revisiting our favourite spots in the market. But eventually, it was time to leave. Our afternoon flight to Delhi came far too soon.
Saying goodbye to the mountains is always the hardest part. As the plane lifted off, I felt a lump in my throat and a sting in my eyes. There’s something about this place — maybe it’s the quiet, maybe it’s the people, or maybe it’s that deep, spiritual connection that words can never fully capture. All I know is, it’s never really goodbye… it’s always see you again.
Visiting Leh–Ladakh twice taught me something — you can never truly “finish” this place. No matter how many passes you cross or monasteries you visit, there’s always another hidden valley, another prayer flag waiting to flutter in your memory.
And yes, I’m already planning my third trip. Because once you’ve been to heaven, you can’t help but want to go back.
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